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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.