Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.