The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the course of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the capital's buzzing 1990s creative scene, moving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.

"That era was the peak of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be great friends. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that spontaneity."

While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is in good company. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. But since that time, Enninful perceives a noticeable regression. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."

A Cultural Backslide

This shift is increasingly evident: the rise of nationalist groups, the pushback against progressive values, and the return of Eurocentric beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the previous decade, now a different political figure stands as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an emblem of Cool Britannia, has returned as a polarising symbol.

According to Enninful, the solution has consistently been to promote culture in all its diversity. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of influential figures from music.

"Those in a position of influence should wield it," he says, referring to those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain were not a open country, if it refused my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this phase will end."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He draws solace in the next generation: "They’re much more aware than we were. They discuss unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a pioneering career characterised by boldness and representation. Enninful made history as the first male, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured landmark covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Importantly, sales increased.

"To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he explains.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his premier initiative since leaving his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor".

"I constantly interrogate the established norms. I was brought up in a place where everybody was black – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a unique perspective both an insider and outsider."

Defying the popular image of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His path has included its share of challenges, including well-documented struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also faced serious health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to limited vision. "I was in such a difficult period for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to do everything that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

A Foray into Curation

This drive to fit into a box has inspired him beyond the world that established him. He is now organising a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a host of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to evoke the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and spotlight those who did not receive a spotlight at the time.

"Institutions often failed to promote the right artists because they lacked the traditional credentials," he comments.

This venture itself uses a different approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a broader vision."

A Testament to Resilience

Now, Enninful stands as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

How would the Enninful of that era react to the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. Back then I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He adds. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we fled our country. I came close to losing my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have doubted me my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve made up my mind to do something."